Cherokee, Clay & Graham: The far west

The three westernmost counties of North Carolina — Cherokee, Clay and Graham — are known for their charming small towns and remarkable scenic beauty. The area remains largely untouched by the spoils of commercial tourism and offers a haven to those still clinging to their Appalachian roots.

Cherokee County

Located in the extreme southwest corner of the state, Cherokee County boarders both Tennessee and Georgia.

Here, in the Nantahala National Forest, visitors will find ample outdoor adventure opportunities, including hiking, camping, and long-trip backpacking. The county's rivers and three lakes offer prime rafting, trout fishing and swimming. And atop the mountains, high-elevation plants such as fragrant azaleas, lilies, mountain laurel, rhododendron and lady slippers bloom.

Over the years, explorer Hernando De Soto and famed botanist William Bartram (namesake of the Bartram Trail) passed this way. In the late 1800s, six forts were constructed in the far western end of North Carolina to house the native Cherokee Indians during the "Great Removal," a precursor to the Trail of Tears. The largest of the forts was Fort Butler, located on the Hiwassee River near what is now Murphy. A forced march from homelands in North Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee and Alabama the Trail of Tears led to more than 4,000 Native American deaths. The move has been described as one of the darkest blots on America's history.

Today, Cherokee County is known for its preservation of historical resources including several buildings, houses and inns, which give the towns of Murphy and Andrews a turn-of-the-century feeling. The nation's oldest wagon train, organized in 1958 to protest then substandard road, runs through Andrews each Fourth of July.

Places to Visit

• Cherokee County Historical Museum — Located in Murphy, this museum focuses artifacts from Native Americans and early pioneers. Relics from explorer Hernando De Soto's visit also are displayed. 877.558.0005.

• Scottish Woods Resort — This resort and vineyard with Scottish flare is also a farm for miniature horses. There's even a private piper for hire. Located at 382 Scottish Woods Way off Mocassin Creek Road. Always open. 828.837.LOST.

• The Walker Inn — Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this 1840s home, which doubled as a local post office, features a 30-food dining room connecting the kitchen to the rest of the house and several period antiques.

For more information about Cherokee County call the Chamber of Commerce in Murphy at 828.837.2242. To learn more about the town of Andrews call 877.558.0005.

Clay County

Clay County is one of the smallest (220 square miles) and least populated (under 10,000) counties in all of Western North Carolina, and remains virtually untouched by big city influences.

Clay County was formed in 1861 from land once belonging to Cherokee County, and was named for Henry Clay, Kentucky's famed statesman. Visitors will find the county seat, Hayesville, located on a knoll overlooking the Hiawassee River and across to the Tusquitee Mountains. The town was named in honor of George Hayes, who was instrumental in bringing about legislation to form the new county.

Hayesville is the only incorporated municipality in the county, and is largely built around the historic courthouse. The courthouse, completed in November of 1889, is a terrific example of Venacular Italianate architecture.

In southernmost Clay County, Lake Chatuge crosses the South Carolina state line. The lake is a reservoir built by Tennessee Valley Authority in 1941 and is located in the "bowl" section of the Hiawassee River. The TVA Lake System was built for flood control and to provide electricity to the area. Several campgrounds are located near the lake, including Jackrabbit Campground, part of the Nantahala National Forest, which has 100 campsites, hiking, picnic areas and a beach swimming area.

Fires Creek, also part of the Nantahala National Forest, encompass 14,000 acres designated as a bear sanctuary. It is popular for fly fishermen, hikers, and photography buffs.

Some of the big events planned for this summer in Clay County: Sesquicentennial Celebration all July; 25th annual Rode on July 8-9; Outdoorms Sportsman Show all fo August; and the 21st annual Mountain Golf Tournament on Aug. 27.

Places to Visit

• Farmers' Market — The Mountain Valley Farmer's Market has produce, flowers, herbs, ornamentals, pickles, jams and jellies, relishes, live plants, honey, fruits and berries, baked goods, and local crafts. Located on the Square in Hayesville. Saturdays from 8 a.m. to noon.

• John C. Campbell Folk School — This school offers instruction in mountain crafts, dance and more in a unique style patterned after European folk schools, where there are no grades. Classes are generally a week in length; however, the school also hosts several special events throughout the year including auctions, concerts and dances. 828.837.8637.

• Peacock Playhouse — The local theater group, the Licklog Players, perform regularly at this playhouse in Hayesville. Shows this year include "Bugsy Malone," July 21-24, 29-31 and Aug. 5-7; and "Death of a Salesman" Sept. 23-25 and Sept. 30-Oct. 2. For show times and tickets more information call 828.389.8632.

For more information about Clay County call 828.389.3704.

Graham County

An isolated county that borders Fontana Lake and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on the north and Tennessee to the west, Graham County is sometimes referred to as North Carolina's last frontier. Two-thirds of the county is national forest.

The county seat, a sleepy little town called Robbinsville, has a population under 1,000 — they say there are only traffic jams twice a year, for homecoming and the Christmas parade.

However, there's a lot for visitors to do in Graham County. Fontana Village Resort is the largest single resort in North Carolina and is located close to the Fontana Dam. The dam is the largest dam east of the Mississippi and has a visitors' center of its own that describes its creation.

The Cherohala Skyway, a 40-mile scenic highway between North Carolina and Tennessee, is especially popular during the fall color season, but offers a cool, less traveled getaway in the summer. The route boasts what is known as the Tail of the Dragon — 318 curves in 11 miles — which has earned a reputation with motorcyclists and car enthusiasts. Be warned, the Dragon can be deadly.

Those looking to lower their blood pressure, rather than raise it, may want to head for Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, a 3,800-acre primitive forest that contains rare old-growth forests that escaped the logger's saws in the early part of the century.

Places to Visit

• Mill Creek Pottery — A rustic studio and farmhouse offering smoke fired porcelain, glazed stoneware and stained glass, as well as classes. Located off 129 South, two miles from Robbinsville. Open most days from noon until 6 p.m. or by appointment. 828.479.9449.

• Stecoah Valley Center — This cooperative craft shop is housed in a 75-year-old stone schoolhouse where visitors can often watch local artisans working in studios. The center offers courses in mountain crafts such as rug making, spinning and weaving, woodcarving, dulcimer and other mountain music, as well as many festivals, plays, concerts and events throughout the year. 828.479.3364. Open Monday through Friday, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Located off N.C. 28 near the junction with N.C. 143, 10 miles north of Robbinsville.

• Yellow Branch Farm and Pottery — Located one mile off NC Route 28, this 50-acre homestead is a prime example of sustainable living. Six jersey cows provide milk for the farm's award-winning cheeses, while everyday pottery is created by hand in the working studio. There are no formal tours, but visitors are welcome to peruse the grounds. Yellow Branch is open from noon to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and at other times "by chance or appointment." 828.479.6710.

For more information about Graham County call 828.479.3790.